I walked down the beach alone in the dark. The stars shone bright with the milky-way lighting a strip across the sky. The waves crashed and with them came the slightest glow of bio-luminescence. I tip-toed over massive craters in the sand, nervous to disturb any of them. I heard a wheezing sound up ahead. I peeked into one of the craters. A massive turtle lay at the bottom and it began to excavate the crater further. It was already 4ft deep by 6ft, and growing with every flipper swipe.
I sat there under the starts, Orion overhead, listening to this turtle wheeze for air, then dig for a minute or two before taking a 5 minute break. And repeat. I walked on to find several other females slaving away for their bastard children. Tracks of previous turtles cut across other nests like tractor tires. Egg shells like broken ping-pong balls littered the beach. I came across one nest with some freshly crushed eggs among empty shells. Some predator; dog, bird, or the anteater type thing I saw earlier lurking near the bushes. I found one female just beginning her nights' work and I bedded down 30ft away. I woke several times to find the female working on another site only a few feet from my sleeping bag. I expected to wake again to her berrying me in sand or becoming part of her nest. Instead I woke to the moon rising over the cliffs at the end of the beach. The half circle glowed brightly over the golden beach and cast shadows over the nests, throwing polka dots across the beach. I got up and checked on all the turtles nearby. One female was laying her eggs in a big basket at the bottom of her hole, guarding it from sand falling in it with her rear flippers. I sat with her until she finished and watched her fill in the basket and begin covering the hole. When I returned just before sunrise I found her tracks leading out into the ocean and her nest crater was now a mound; she'd piled even more sand on the nest than was there originally.
On my morning walk back towards the town I came across two females close together. One had just emerged from the ocean, still wet in the morning light. The other had a small hole she seemed to have just started excavating. The sun rose over the cliffs, following the moon's path or vise versa, and at almost the same time, both females stopped their work and headed for the sea. They skidded their cumbersome bodies down the beach and entered the surf. I sat for a few minutes thinking about my night. The hours of work these turtles instinctively know how to do for an unknown outcome. So many variables come into play it seems; predation of eggs, hatchlings on the beach or in the ocean, and then the hope that the hathclings steer away from the hypnotizing lights of town, as many are found climbing the wrong way up the beach after only a few days out of the egg. I looked out to sea and I thought and spotted a head rise up for air 100m offshore, then dive down again. One of the females taking a refreshing breath after a long and dry night on the beaches of Maruata Mexico.





































